Imagine a sanctuary where soaring pine and oak trees cloak the landscape, spanning 90,000 hectares of rugged terrain, with mountains soaring from 1,500 meters to the dizzying heights of 6,000 meters. This is the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP); a gem that earned its place on the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage list in 2014. Established in 1984, GHNP covers an impressive 750 square kilometers and forms part of the Himalayan biodiversity hotspot. Several threatened and/or endemic species such as the Western Tragopan, Chir Pheasant, Snow Leopard, Himalayan Musk Deer, Asiatic Black Bear, Himalayan Tahr, and Blue Sheep are few of the alluring creatures that dwell in this pristine Himalayan haven.

Established in 1984, the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP), earned its place on the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage list in 2014. GHNP covers an impressive 750 square kilometers and forms part of the Himalayan biodiversity hotspot.

Our expedition began in late July, just before the onset of monsoon, when I, along with colleagues Simran Tomar and Purnima Rawat, set out to study the distribution of Taxus species and collect field samples. Starting on July 27, 2024 from our headquarters in Almora, we traversed through the remote villages of Sainj and Tirthan Valley, diving into an adventure that was both heuristic and awe-inspiring. Each step of the journey revealed new insights into the rich cultural history between nature and local communities in ways that will stay with me for a lifetime.

The Shangarh meadows, and the famous Shangchul Mahadev temple, the intricate wooden carvings around the front entrance are truly a marvel

The first morning in Shangarh, we awoke to the cheerful chirping of Magpies outside our windows, setting the tone for what would become an unforgettable day. As I gazed out, I was greeted by the serene beauty of Shangarh Valley, where majestic mountains cradle a valley dotted with traditional Himachali houses. These structures, with their artful blend of wood and stone, offer a glimpse into the region's rich architectural heritage. At the valley's heart lies an ancient temple with a slate roof, a poignant reminder that this place truly resides in the lap of the Himalayas (Him-Anchal). After a hearty breakfast, we embarked on our trek towards Thinni Top, filled with enthusiasm. About half an hour from the rest house, we came upon a sacred grove devoted to the forest deity—a goddess's idol leaning against a towering deodar tree. These sacred groves symbolize a community's deep connection to the land, embodying cultural richness, ethical altruism, and traditional ecological knowledge. Here, nature conservation is not just a practice but a sacred duty, intertwined with communal reverence.

As we walked further, the path grew steeper. The distant sound of rushing water became more pronounced, growing louder with each step. The forest thickened, and soon a small waterfall began to emerge through the trees. The trail eventually opened up, revealing a small bridge beneath a lone Taxus tree, its bark stripped and branches drooping over a pool below. The gentle bubbling of the water drowned out the birdsong, prompting reflection on the paradox of human behavior: we revere forest deities and claim to use natural resources judiciously, yet often exploit nature to its limits. Such is the irony of our actions.

We carefully collected samples and continued our trek, observing the changing landscape as we climbed higher. Eventually, we reached a meadow (thaach), where we paused to soak in the beauty surrounding us. The scent of cattle and the whistle of tea brewing in a worn kettle filled the air—a perfect encapsulation of a quaint village of Himachal.

Finally, after a grueling climb for what felt like eons we reached Thinni Top.

The breathtaking view left us in awe and wonder. In this moment, you realize how connected everything is: the earth beneath your feet, the foliage around, the air you breathe. It’s as if the mountains in all their glory speak to a deeper part of you, revealing the simplicity and beauty of existence. You feel a profound sense of peace and understanding, knowing that this place, this moment, is a reminder of the harmony that exists in nature—and within yourself. As we descended, we spotted a pair of yellow-throated Martens scurrying across a field of Irises. Apart from this we even noticed various medicinal plants, including Bergenia ciliata growing in the crevices of rocks. Back at the rest house, we ended the day with warm Maggi and Taxus tea, prepared by a knowledgeable cook who shared stories of the region’s valuable medicinal plants.

A Helping hand and a Lighthearted Loss

In the midst of our ordeal, a local appeared out of the shadows, offering much-needed guidance and support. He helped us navigate the tricky terrain, but not without a cost. With a sly smile, he took some of the vegetables we had painstakingly gathered. Too tired to protest, we just exchanged knowing glances and let it slide. After all, what are a few greens compared to a safe passage through the wilderness?

Tea and Tranquility: Finding rest after the climb

We stumbled into the forest rest house around 11 PM, utterly spent. Instead of washing up, we collapsed into the nearest spot. A local brewed us tea from Taxus bark, its warmth infused us with a renewed sense of energy, lifting our spirits just enough to appreciate the night’s end, as I took the first sip of the tea my shoulders relaxed and the exhaustion melted away. As we settled in for the night, fatigue and exhilaration mingled. Physically drained but eager for the next day's adventure, we drifted off to sleep under the starry sky, ready for whatever lay ahead. The trek had tested us in ways we hadn’t expected, but it had also rewarded us with memories that would last a lifetime.

The next day our journey from Shangarh to Ropa was marked by irregular rains and warnings to stay clear of the nearby river. It was almost evening by the time we reached Ropa, so we decided to rest. Over the next two days, we explored study sites and visited a small village, which required crossing a rickety wooden bridge that swayed with every gust of wind. Along the way, we were joined by a loyal dog we named Sheru, won over with a packet of biscuits.

Exploring Shoja

Arriving in Shoja, our hearts were as full as the evening sky. The drive from Jibhi was a picturesque descent into this serene hamlet. As dusk approached, we were fortunate to catch the tail end of a local pooja. The community had gathered in the Municipality office, and the atmosphere was filled with devotion and celebration. The villagers, in their warm Himachali hospitality, welcomed us with open arms. We were invited to join the festivities and partake in the "dham," a traditional meal served during religious occasions. The flavors of the local cuisine, steeped in tradition, offered a taste of the region’s rich cultural heritage. Sharing this meal with the locals was an experience that transcended mere travel, connecting us deeply with the culture and its people.

The next morning, we set out early for a trek to Devla Thach. The dense forests of Q. semecarpiflora enveloped us in their lush embrace. Eager to make up for our previous tardiness, we began our hike with a renewed sense of purpose. Breakfast on the go was a delightful affair; we foraged for wild strawberries, their sweet juiciness adding a touch of nature’s bounty to our morning meal. Our trek led us through a stunning sea of irises—stretching as far as the eye could see.

The sight was a treat to our sore eyes, a vivid reminder of nature's beauty amidst our journey. By the time we completed our trek, we returned to Shoja just in time for tea. The extra hours allowed us to interact more with the villagers, who eagerly shared their knowledge they noted a marked decline in high-value plant species, reflecting a significant population reduction. This trend points to possible overharvesting, habitat degradation, or ecological changes. Despite tourism's benefits for Shoja, it has also caused habitat fragmentation.

The following day brought its own set of challenges. The sky was overcast, and the sun seemed reluctant to show itself. We decided to venture into the Shoja Forest, moving through it towards the Raghupur Forest trek, which promised to lead us eventually to Jalori Pass. Hunger pangs and fatigue tested our resolve, but the ever-changing landscape kept our spirits buoyed. The forest, though stunning, was treacherous due to the morning's light showers, which left the terrain slippery. Despite these obstacles, we pushed on with determination, scaling steep slopes and navigating precarious paths. The Gujjar settlements encountered on our way at various sites engage in extensive herding and grazing practices can lead to overgrazing, reducing plant diversity and biomass, which may ultimately degrade the vegetation cover. Over time, this disruption of natural regeneration processes can result in soil erosion, altered hydrology, and significant changes to the landscape's ecological stability.

Reaching Jalori Pass was a triumph, a reward for our perseverance. The view from the pass was breathtaking, a panorama of snow-capped peaks and verdant valleys stretching out before us. As we walked across the pass towards Jalori Jot, we encountered numerous medicinal plants, their presence a testament to the region’s rich botanical diversity.

Our journey through Shoja and beyond was an odyssey of discovery and endurance. From the warmth of the local pooja to the challenges of the trek, every moment was infused with the spirit of adventure and the charm of the Himalayas. The experience was a vivid reminder of the beauty that lies in the journey itself and the connections made along the way.

The Enchanted Village of Sharchi

Reaching Sharchi felt like stepping into a storybook. The journey, however, was far from easy. With heavy rucksacks strapped to our backs and sweat trickling down our brows, we navigated the rugged terrain leading to this remote village. The path seemed to stretch endlessly, with each step testing our resolve. But just as our spirits were waning, we caught our first glimpse of the homestay—a traditional Himachali house, nestled amidst the apple orchards and lush greenery.

The sight was nothing short of mesmerizing. The wooden structure, with its intricately carved windows and sloping roof, exuded an old-world charm that made the arduous journey worthwhile. Instead of heading inside, we simply slumped down on the carpets laid outside our room, too enchanted and exhausted to move. The cool mountain breeze whispered through the trees as we lay there, lost in the beauty of our surroundings.

Hours passed in peaceful silence until our gracious host brought us a hearty lunch. A plate of Rajma Chawal, accompanied by a bowl of home-prepared ghee, was served with such love that it warmed our hearts and soothed our tired bodies. The simple yet delicious meal made us feel at home, a sense of peace settling over us. Sharchi, with its charming and picturesque view, seemed like a town plucked straight out of a story, where time slowed down, and the outside world ceased to exist.

The Final Challenge: Conquering Lambri Top

Our trek to Lambri Top was the most challenging part of our expedition. The climb was relentless, a steep ascent over bare rocks that seemed to stretch up into the clouds. Each step felt like a battle, with our lungs burning and our muscles screaming in protest. At one point, the incline was so severe that the idea of sleeping in a sleeping bag right there crossed our minds, though we quickly dismissed it as a less-than-brilliant decision.

The clouds hovered ominously above us, adding to the daunting atmosphere. But despite the odds, we pushed on, driven by sheer determination. Finally, we reached the summit of Lambri Top (), a place steeped in ancient lore. Legend has it that ages ago, a yogini meditated on this very peak, her spiritual prowess so immense that the land itself became holy. A temple dedicated to the goddess now stands at the top, a testament to her unwavering dedication.

The view from Lambri Top was breathtaking, offering a fleeting glimpse of a 360-degree panorama that seemed to stretch on forever. We barely managed to capture the beauty before the clouds closed in, shrouding the landscape in mist. As we stood there, gazing out at the world below, the sense of accomplishment was overwhelming.

A Grueling Descent and a Warm Welcome

The descent from Lambri Top was grueling, our tired legs struggling to navigate the rocky terrain in the fading light. As night fell, the thought of being chased by a bear crossed our minds more than once, adding a touch of fear to our exhaustion. It was close to midnight when we finally stumbled back to our homestay, weary and worn out. But our spirits lifted as we were welcomed back with a warm dinner. The simple yet comforting meal of Siddu and ghee was exactly what we needed to end the day. As we sat around the table, sharing stories and laughter, the exhaustion melted away, was replaced by a deep sense of satisfaction. The journey to Lambri Top had tested our limits, but it had also rewarded us with memories that would last a lifetime.

Reflecting on all the adventures, the highs and lows, the challenges and triumphs, I find myself more motivated and sure about the field of work I have chosen. What were once abstract concepts in textbooks now stand before me as tangible, living realities. The power of nature, the rawness of the terrain, and the sheer force of the elements—all of it has reaffirmed my passion. This journey has been more than just an adventure; it has been a journey of self-discovery and a deepened understanding of the world I am so eager to explore and protect.

-Until next time.